AMBOI - the journey in motion

AMBOI is a malay-indonesian saying to express "wow", "beautiful", "awesome". our journey across the archipelago breaks down to this simple word: amboi

Roadjunkies in the "Land of the Heavenly Kings"

As the sun rises we drive by the waves of the Makassar Strait pounding furiously against the cliffs. Our comfortable night bus is bound for the "Land of the Heavenly Kings" commonly known as Tana Toraja. I sit back and trip down the memory lane of the past few days.

Only yesterday an AirAsia Airbus had delivered us conveniently in Makassar - AirAsia's eastern most Indonesian destination. For me it's the fourth time in Makassar. Friendly people, a relaxed atmosphere and outstanding delicacies always make me come back. This time with my boyfriend Craig.

Catching the sea breeze we strolled about Makassar's popular Losari beach. With fantastic bay views we enjoyed some mouthwatering "Ikan Bakar" (baked marinated fish) and local favorite "Coto Makassar" (beef soup mixed with innards) from a street hawker. As billboards illuminate the nightly activity I noticed how fast the city had evolved into a vivid metropolis offering everything from top-end hotels and mega malls to one of the world's largest indoor fun parks (Trans Studio Makassar).

Now we will swap the pleasures of the urban lifestyle in sun-pampered Makassar for exotic culture and off-the-beaten-track nature in chilly Tana Toraja - an exciting first-time for both of us!

In the local tourism office helpful staff recommends us various outdoor activities in the hilly area such as wild water rafting, hiking, horse-back riding and of course cultural highlights of the Toraja people.

From our hostel we set off with a rented motorbike to explore the region. Our first stop is a traditional weaving village set amidst curling paddy fields on the slope of the towering Gunung Sesean. On the way we already glimpsed the world-famous "Tongkonan". Anthropologists still wonder if the shape of the high-thatched traditional houses stem from the horn shape of the omnipresent water buffaloes or the shape of ships as the highland Toraja have a naval heritage.

Now we stand in awe amid a compound of a dozen of these both futuristic and exotic looking buildings. The village eldest invites us to see the inside of his family's Tongkonan and offers a more detailed insight. Only minutes later we stop at a roadside Durian stall sampling special versions of the so called "Queen of Fruits" … mmmmmh yummy.

The cultural treasures seem infinite as we explore scary cave graves and a rock face with Tau-Taus (wooden effigies of the dead) on balconies and dozens of hanging coffins bursting with sculls and bones. These are truly places not to be missed by culture enthusiasts.

Both scared and exhilarated we kick back in a hilltop cafe with panoramic views over the "Land of the Heavenly Kings".

Then we hit the road again - or let's say dirt tracks - heading to funeral celebrations in a nearby village. Palm trees drift by and the head wind sweeps my hair as I smile at the farmers in the paddy fields. It‘s a picturesque view that unfolds in front of our eyes.

Suddenly we are ripped from the paradisal atmosphere. The dusty tarmac underneath us slips away. In slow motion I see us falling down and the motorbike skidding shortly before coming to a halt… Shock. Startled. Smoke.
Locals approach us offering their help. Thank god we weren't injured badly and the motorbike barely got a dent. Relieved we take a deep breath and continue our way.

The funeral celebrations are decadent with 35 buffaloes and more cattle being sacrificed and hundreds of guests being welcomed with traditional rites and pampered with food and drinks. On the side a group of men enthusiastically cheers up a rooster fight. As always the charming locals invite us to join them and they explain the celebration proceedings. We are so happy to see with how much enthusiasm the Toraja people preserve and embrace their cultural heritage.

We calm down in the tranquil town of Rantepao sipping Toraja coffee - one of the finest Arabica Coffee on the planet. Some revitalizing foot reflexology and a souvenir shopping spree along the handicraft market near our comfy hostel do their rest. Two days on a pristine palm-lined white sandy beach just an hour south of Makassar offer great snorkeling amid colorful marine life in an eye-popping seascape that glows in radiant shades of emerald.

Makassar and the state of South Sulawesi is truly an indulgence for both the mind and body. The trip exceeded expectations and we‘re definitely coming back again. We board the plane back home with a thousand memories. As the plane takes off we wave goodbye: „Jumpa lagi Makassar!“

Hitchhiking to Fisterra (incl. Rural Couch Surfing)

Israel + Palestine + IRAN = ♥ ? - My take

I was pretty nervous about going to Israel with an Iranian Visa in my passport. Especially because loads of people fear mongered about tight security procedures up to denied entry.

Fortunately I stayed optimistic and it proved to be ok. Here's what I experienced:

Upon arrival

I asked the immigration not to stamp my passport, coz I love to travel and don't want to have problems. The officer found the visa and asked some questions, then asked me to go for an interrogation/interview. I had a rather comfortable 30mins talk with a young officer. She need me to give loads of details just about anything. In advance my friend and I had synced the story we'd tell.
Of course don't tell them you want to visit the Territories! Don't alter your story took much: It's their job to detect lies =) If you got to a point of no return =) change the topic!
We even talked about some everyday topics such as hitchhiking, CouchSurfing and Facebook. In the end they accidentally put the Israeli stamp. No worries, it's just ironic they put it next to the Iranian =)

At checkpoints (Rehan, Bethlehem, Hebron, Beit Jala)

Ok, we entered the territories at Rehan checkpoint - which was nuts to do. I cannot recommend it, because it's simply not allowed for Israelis nor Palestinians nor foreigners to cross here. It's only for the remote Palestian village that has been cut off by the fence. We somehow got in touch with the officers and ran through all levels of hierarchy and finally - after three hours - I convinced them with some Hollywood-like sentences about family, kids and stuff =) Wonderful moment, which proved there's humans everywhere, even at this inhumane concrete Checkpoint. Botton line: even at this no-go-no-chance situation they weren't put off by my Iranian Stamp.

Rehan checkpoint - not to be crossed by any other than certain Palestinians 

Upon exiting

Again, the officer instantly find my Stamp, asked some questions, and gave me and then of course my friend as well the worst security level number, which is "6".
They examined every single thing of our carry-on backpacks and gave us thorough, pretty intimate body checks behind closed doors. Nothing dramatic. The security process took us like 2 hrs. We arrived late at the airport about 2,5 hrs, which is too late on normal days! Plan for 4hrs if you expect to get a "6". On the other side u can gamble and come late, then they have to hurry to get u on the plane, just like they did with us. We had young, friendly staff.

Bottom line: Don't worry about traveling to Israel with Iranian Stamp! Challenge the situation with your sympathy and it's gonna be all right ;-)

Toda. Shukran. Thanks Israel & Palestine 

Love. Craig.

Poland & the Baltics - the road trip Movie

Amidst the final exams – the German Abitur – Felix and I are again consumed by wanderlust. We opt for a road trip to Eastern Europe.
Only yesterday we had written the last tests. Now we‘re together with Polish CouchSurfers hopping through Wroclaw‘s nightlife and tomorrow Poznán‘s historic city center, then relishing the atmosphere in Gdansk and glimpsing the Middle Ages in Marlborg.
In laid-back Pupki, tucked away in the Masurian Lake District, we fall asleep on hay in a barn – smelling the fragrances of countryside. We swap a fresh little lake for the morning shower. Awesome couch!
We continue trough marvelous landscapes in Lithuania & Latvia. Breathtaking architecture & adventures around Vilnius & Riga. We scale the Hill of Crosses in the middle of nowhere. Hillarious fun with Rimvydas parkouring the dunes on the Coronian Spit and touching Russian soil. On the ferry back to Germany we look at the sunset and back on 10 days stuffed with action, fun & challenges.
A video tells more than a thousand words:

Morocco - CouchSurfing subsaharan Dunes

Salam Morocco

Morocco is a place highly worthwhile and fun to explore, especially because of its convenient tourism infrastructure. Although also famous for Beach resorts like Agadir I would certainly not recommend Morocco to sun & beach-cracks. On the contrary medieval towns like Fes, Mèknes or Marrakech boost vast so called Medinas to explore. In these open-air markets the faux guides and never ending harassments cause hassles and inconveniences. Therefore try to stick with your own instincts and orientation skills.

Transport through Morocco is relatively convenient thanks to a well maintained road system. Trains are also easy to go with though there's only one route in service (Marrakech/Tanger-Oujda). The cheapest fare for Fes-Casa is 110 Dh, whereas Casa-Marrakech costs 90 Dh.

A coach from Marrakech to Fes at 120D h is considerably cheaper compared to a 196 Dh train ticket, takes the same time and boosts the same standard.

Inside the cities the red petit taxis are the prime choice for transport.

Hostels and so called Ryads are abundant. Prices and included amenities vary. With 100 Dh a night you're all right. Prices drop in the low season and for every additional person.

To get the best deals for souvenirs peek into the small back lanes and Ryads where the Souvenirs are produced. Generally you have to bargain boldly and leave the shop area entirely at least once to beat down sky-rocketing american-tourist-prices.

Have a glance at my website where you can see a movie about our trip and more pics

Couch Surfing - The Missing Quick Manual

What is CouchSurfing?

CS is an online social network dedicated to advance cultural understanding by sharing hospitality with one another. The experience is highly beneficial to all parties involved.

How does CS work?

Members that are about to travel search online for members that live near the desired destination. The travelers then send requests via the online platform. If the recipients are willing to host then phone numbers, addresses etc. are exchanged and the marvelous experience is about to happen. Members can decide if they want to host somebody or only want to offer a dinner or a sightseeing tour.

Is it free and safe?

CS is free. CS is voluntary and bases upon mutual trust and responsibility. There are several ways CS tries to show that members are reliable and safe to surf. Firstly references are written for both hosts and travelers and secondly can members verify their address and thereby their CS-identity.

How do I write a good request?

Read or at least scan the profiles and refer to statements to show that you are not simply sending a serial mail which are generally ignored. Address the host and say thank you. Tell what you can offer (present, skill, cooking). Say something about you. Specify meeting times and places. Exchange phone numbers. Ask if you need to bring something (sleeping bag). Say thank you in the local language to show your interest in the culture.

Your request should not be longer than 15 lines because people tend to be busy and refrain from reading long texts. To uphold the member‘s privacies use the implemented CS messaging engine to communicate.

Watch a movie (Morocco, EURO-Tour, Poland & the Baltics) about my CouchSurfing experiences!

CouchSurfing.org

Amsterdam - The Netherlands

I AMsterdam. Der Slogan ist Programm. Diese Stadt lebt und feiert sich selbst.

Amsterdam ist vielleicht die einzige europäische Stadt in der das Stadtbild zumindest in der Innenstadt erhalten und nachhaltig aufgewertet wurde, anstatt wie üblich es durch hässliche Betonklötze zu verunstalten.

Amsterdam ist nicht nur extrem Bootsfahrer-freundlich, sondern viel mehr Fahrradfahrer-freundlich. Alles lässt sich bequem mit dem Fahrrad erreichen. Zudem ist der Fahrradfahrer der privilegierteste Verkehrsteilnehmer in Holland. Er hat vor allen Vorfahrt! Auch die anderen öffentlichen Verkehrsmittel stehen in nichts nach.

Must-See-Places sind der Stadtteil Jordaan im Nordwesten der Stadt, die Innenstadt mit ihren lebendigen Einkaufsmeilen und das Rotlichtviertel bei Nacht. Letzteres kann schockierend sein, angesichts Zoo-ähnlichen Verhältnissen.

Bemerkenswert ist auch der multikulturelle Charakter der Stadt. Nepalesisches Restaurant neben uruguayischem Steakhouse und burmesischem Luxusrestaurant sind keine Seltenheit. Preise sind generell vergleichbar mit Deutschen, wobei der öffentliche Nahverkehr signifikant billiger ist.

More pics? Go to craig-antweiler.de

Basel - Switzerland

Basel is the second biggest city in Switzerland and lies right in the three-country-triangle next to the river Rhine. Although it‘s streets might make you think it may be tranquil here, it‘s not! Basel is the bustling business center of Switzerland. It‘s a bank robber‘s heaven whereas I certainly don not recommend Basel for culture or architecture lovers or people in search for repose. People here speak foremost German, Swiss German and French.

Among others, one compulsory activity for youth is the BarRouge on the 31st floor of the Messeturm towering Basel. Have a cafe or a chilled drink in this hip lounge chatting with the friendly staff, figuring out the structure of Basel or taking rejoice of the picturesque sunset.

In summer a fun thing to do happens to be on the Badische Seite (German Side) of the Rhine river bank. Get rid of your clothes upriver and enjoy a 500 meter river ride floating or swimming to the next ramp.

Don‘t miss the beautiful Basel Dome and it‘s nearby terrace which provides scenic views of the Rhine turn. Make sure visiting the town hall. It‘s a unique red-colored building.

Concerning the transport you should opt for walking. Though Swiss trams are highly convenient the distances are short and reward with better insights.

More pics? Go to craig-antweiler.de